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Favourites of India

We like India so much it gets its own page
These are our favourite places from our grand tour of India,
going roughly clockwise from the north-east corner


To see our Grand Tour of India with map, sights, hotels and meals, just click the elephant ....

The Planter's Club in Darjeeling, a delightfuly faded Raj-style hotel and gentleman's club where we had a free choice of which room we liked because no-one else had checked in yet. We chose room 4, a wonderful wood-panelled room with a sitting room beside the balcony overlooking Darjeeling town and the mountains, a spacious bedroom with a log fire to take the chill off in the cold evenings, a luggage room and bathroom with a big old-fashioned bathtub. The friendly hotel staff were falling over themselves to light the coal fire for us and soon the room was warm and cosy.

The Planter's Club in Darjeeling, India in 2006

And on the subject of hotels, the Fairlawn in Calcutta. A lovely, green oasis of restful Raj-era luxury in the middle of the teeming Chowringhee district of Calcutta, where the rooms have high ceilings and good solid wooden furniture. Mrs Violet Smith's family have been running it for 70 years, and we had an enjoyable discussion with her about the lost social lifestyle of the Raj that Violet had lived and enjoyed for so long, but which had all but disappeared now that she was almost the last expatriate still living in Calcutta.

The Fairlawn hotel in Calcutta in 2006

By the sea in Puri, Orissa, on the Coromandel coast - from the Sea Queen Inn, where our room had a fabulous view of the waves breaking on the beach, the fishermen mending their nets and the sunrises.

Fishermen mending their nets in Puri, Orissa, India in 2006


Sunrise at Puri beach in Orissa, India in 2006

Hyderabad - the impressive Golconda fort, a huge palace and fort complex built on a granite hill, it was the centre of a great empire in the 16th century. And the Charminar, the symbol of Hyderabad, a wonderful arched structure with four minarets, situated at a crossroads in the bazaar quarter of town, surrounded by the bazaar with countless barrow-boys selling spices, fruit, veg and all sorts of kitchen implements as well as tasty samosas, as their potential customers flowed around them.

Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, India in 2006


Charminar Bazaar in Hyderabad, India in 2006

Further down the Coromandel coast, by the sea at Mahabalipuram (now Mamalapuram) in Tamil Nadu with temples on the sea shore and ancient monuments in the town.

The shore temple at Mahabalipuram, India in 2008


The Five Rathas at Mahabalipuram, India in 2008

The backwaters of Kerala, wonderfully tranquil to cruise gently along in your houseboat.

In the backwaters of Kerala, India in 2008


Houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala, India in 2008

Kochi, in Kerala, is one of our favourite places of all. Lots of historic buildings, an interesting harbour, freshly-caught fish, another of our favourite hotels (the Grande Residencia) and cafés (the Teapot) and to cap it all, a procession of decorated elephants on their way to the temple preceded by a drumming band - a fascinating spectacle.

Chinese fishing nets in Kochi, Kerala, India in 2008


An elephant procession in Kochi, Kerala, India in 2008

The magnificent Maharaja's palace in Mysore .... the main palace and the south gate below.

Mysore palace in Karnataka, India in 2008


The south gate of Mysore palace in India in 2008

In Goa, it wasn't so much about being on the beach, but more to do with food and accommodation as usual .... we found the best tandoori chicken in a restaurant on Anjuna beach (with a real tandoor oven), and stayed in a lovely historic old hotel in Panjim town.

The Panjim Inn in Panaji, Goa in 2006

In Mumbai (Bombay) it's all about eating and drinking; lunch at one of the grand old Parsi cafés like the Britannia, a beer at Leopold Café, elegant afternoon tea at the Taj, lobster for dinner at the Gaylord restaurant and breakfast or (in this case) dinner at Mondy's (Café Mondegar).

Dinner at Mondy's (café Mondigar) in Mumbai in 2011

And on the same theme, we enjoyed the vineyard tour at Sula vineyard near Nasik, followed by lunch overlooking the rolling hills full of grapevines. We subsequently visited two other Indian vineyards, Grover's in Nandi Hills, Karnataka and Fratelli's in Sholapur, Maharashtra.

In the restaurant at Sula vineyard in Nasik, India in 2011

In the Unesco-listed temple complexes at Ajanta and Ellora are some magnificent temples, of which the most impressive is Kailasa temple (number 16) at Ellora; not built, but carved out of solid rock.

Kailasa temple at Ellora, Maharashtra, India in 2010

Daman and Diu are two 'Union Territories' with a very Portuguese ambience, historic buildings and churches, well-perserved forts and fishing harbours ....

Fishing boats at Daman, India in 2014

.... In Daman we stayed in the Marina hotel, a lovely old colonial mansion ....

The Marina hotel in Daman, India, in 2013

.... and in Diu, on an island off Gujerat state, we stayed first in a converted church and then in a former palace, and explored the fort.

In the fort in Diu, India, in 2009

Rajasthan has so many wonders it's hard to know where to begin. Udaipur is our all-time favourite, with outrageously picturesque lakeside houses, palaces and restaurants, as well as colourful markets and the chance for an elephant ride!

The Lake Palace hotel in Udaipur, India in 2010


In the Ambrai restaurant by the lake in Udaipur, India in 2013


Vegetable barrow in Udaipur, India in 2011


Riding Ramu the elephant in Udaipur, India in 2011

Jodphur was one of our favourites in Rajasthan, with a wonderful fort, palace, market and a whole town full of interesting old buildings (and lots of great places to stay and eat, of course).

Jodhpur town seen through the wall of the fort in 2009


Sardar market in Jodhpur, India in 2009

And Jaisalmer was another great favourite with another wonderful fort and palace, elaborate 'havelis' (noblemens' houses), cows and camels wandering in the streets and restaurants with wonderful views - the Trio restaurant for dinner with a view of the floodlit castle, and 8 July restaurant for lunch below the palace.

Dinnertime for a cow in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan in 2009


The 8 July restaurant by the palace in Jaisalmer, India in 2009

One of our favourite hotels is the Seventh Heaven in Pushkar, Rajasthan, which has comfortable swings to relax in.

Swinging in the Seventh Heaven haveli in Pushkar, Rajasthan in 2010

The Golden Temple at Amritsar in the Punjab took our breath away.

The Golden Temple at Amritsar in the Punjab, India in 2009

Staying in a houseboat and paddling around Dal Lake at Srinagar in Kashmir was wonderful.

Tranquil Dal Lake at Srinagar in Kashmir, India in 2011


Sunset on Dal Lake at Srinagar in Kashmir, India in 2011

And while in the mountains we also enjoyed the hill station at Shimla, especially staying at the old colonial Clarke's hotel.

Colonial-style Clarke's hotel in Shimla, India in 2011

As we tracked the Ganges across North India we stopped at Orchha which had lots of colourful old palaces and temples, and because it was a festival time, lots of colourful pilgrims queueing up to visit them.

Pilgrims in Ram Raja square in Orchha in Madhya Pradesh, India in 2014


Queueing for puja in Ram Raja square in Orchha, India in 2014

At Varanasi (Benares) we set out on the Ganges in the evening to watch the amazingly atmospheric, noisy and crowded evening ceremony ....

The Ganga Aarti evening ceremony on the Ganges at Varanasi, India in 2014

.... and again in the early morning for the calm of sunrise ....

Sunrise on the Ganges at Varanasi, India in 2014

.... where one morning worshipper found a 'window of tranquility'.

A morning worshipper in a window in Varanasi, India in 2014

In Bodhgaya we were fascinated by the Mahabodhi Temple and the ancient sacred Bodhi tree, where people waited for hours just to catch a falling leaf.

The Bodhi tree in Bodhgaya in Bihar, India in 2013


To go back to our 'seven wonders of the world' just click the Seven Wonders ....


If you would like to see more of our travels just click the map.