28th. We arrived in Bangkok and got a limo to the Raja hotel. After an introductory swim and sunbathe we had a beer and watermelon pips at a hostess bar, then crunchy locusts at a street stall. Then after a look at the Three Bells department store (where Jamie played on a computer most of the time) we had a selection of kebabs, rice, fish batter rolls and beer at a pavement café.
29th. We did the temple tour. Three hours at Wat Pra Kheo, an hour at Wat Po, a walk down to the river to photograph Wat Arun, then to Wat Traimit to see the Golden Buddha. We met a lady who told us about Buddhism and the story of the Golden Buddha - it was discovered when it was being hoisted up from the basement into a new side chapel which had been prepared for it. The main chapel already contained a big Buddha and the new chapel was quite small because this Buddha was not considered important. While it was being lifted by crane it dropped to the ground, and everyone was worried because to damage a Buddha was a sin. While a monk was cleaning the Buddha he noticed something shining under the plaster; when the plaster was removed it was found to be solid gold. Unfortunately no photographs were taken so there are no before and after pictures. The Buddha was found to be in nine sections to make it more moveable - it is made of 18 carat gold and weighs five tons. The only modern part of it is the flame of knowledge on his head. His eyes were star sapphires set in mother of pearl.
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Wat Pra Kheo, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. | Wat Pho, Bangkok. |
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Lighting incense sticks at Wat
Pra Kheo, Bangkok. |
Afterwards we went to the Oriental Hotel for a snack, and back to the Raja because we were all suffering from heat exhaustion. Later we went across the road for an Italian meal and felt better.
30th. We went to Jim Thompson's house. Afterwards we had a sunbathe at the Raja, followed by a Thai lunch and a haircut. We went to the Indra Regent hotel to have a look but decided not to stay there. After a couple of beers we had an arabic dinner at an Egyptian restaurant.
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Jim Thompson's house, an old-style Thai home in Bangkok...... |
Hua Hin, Thailand
31st. We hired a car from Inter-rent and after an hour
trying to find the way out of Bangkok, found the road to Hua Hin. We stopped
for lunch at a roadside café and had an excellent fried mixed everything.
Arrived at the Royal Garden Resort, Hua Hin, for a spot of luxury living.
We swam in the sea and the pool, both of which were beautifully warm. We
had a huge Thai meal that we couldn't finish.
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The fishing harbour at Hua Hin, Thailand...... |
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Inside the Khao Luang shrine. | The biggest chedi in south-east Asia, at Nakorn Pathom. |
Bangkok again
Thurs 2nd. Up early and to the floating market at Damnoen Saduak. We had an hour boat trip round the canals, which were very peaceful away from the main market. Had coconut cream thingies for breakfast from one of the boat-shops, then back to the main market which was now extremely busy.
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At 'street level' at the floating market at Damnoen Saduak. |
Drove back to Bangkok, arriving an hour late but the Inter-rent lady didn't
charge any extra. Checked back into the Raja and then went to the food
market at the Ambassador for lunch. Back to the Raja and collapsed for
the afternoon, then back to the Ambassador for dinner.
3rd. We caught a phut-phut down to the Grand Palace again, this time to see the palace, not the Wat. We saw as much of the palace as was open then, inevitably, looked round the Wat again. We had a long, leisurely look after all the package tourists had gone, and walked all round the walls looking at the Ramayana backwards.
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Above left: The Royal Palace,
Bangkok. Above: In the gardens of Wat Pra Kheo. Left: A scene from the Ramayana, painted around the walls of Wat Pra Kheo. |
Then we went across the road for a drink and a Chinese soup, and bought some wind-chimes after trying out each one for quality of sound.
We went down to the landing stage on the river and Sheila had mango and sticky rice at one of the stalls, after which we went to the wrong pier and got on the wrong boat - it was just a ferry to the other side. We crossed back again and tried a different pier, and got one of the long-tailed boats for a fast, spray-filled ride along the canal, dropping people off at their front steps as we went. All the way the canal was lined with wooden stilt-houses that apparently only had access to the canal - there was no road at the back, until we arrived at the boat's destination which was a small town, name unknown. We stayed on the boat for the ride back to Bangkok, stopping whenever someone hailed it from their front steps to pick them up to go into town.4th. We flew to Jakarta. The flight was on time and everything was well-organised on arrival. We booked a hotel and got a minibus through the town centre to it. Had a short walk round in the evening and an excellent meal at the Sabayan Satay House.
5th. We walked across the big square to the main mosque and back via the President's palace. We booked the overnight train to Jogjakarta and a car from the hotel to the station with the bell captain. In the afternoon we went by bus down to the harbour and had an hour's paddle-boat round the big ships, then lunch at the Café Venezia.
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Inside the main mosque in Jakarta. | Cleaning one of the ships in the harbour at Jakarta. |
From the hotel, where our car to the station didn't arrive, we went to
the station, to find that our first-class airconditioned sleeper was actually
a second-class non-airconditioned seat. We were cross at first, but decided
to stick it out and it was a very interesting journey. Sheila slept on
the floor (we bought a mat for the purpose and they handed out cushions),
Jamie slept on the seat and I talked to a chap called Jati who worked for
VSO teaching English to Vietnamese refugees.
Yogyakarta, Java island, Indonesia
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A gamelan orchestra inside the Sultan's Palace in Jogjakarta. | A gateway in the Water Palace, Jogja. |
Then back to the Rose Guest House to collapse in the pool and have a cautious
sunbathe - the last one's still peeling off. Sheila did yet another mammoth
over-ordering for lunch and, even though it was good, we left half of it.
After a lazy afternoon we set off for another Becak ride round the town
amid huge convoys of bikes, cars with no doors and trucks, all supporting
political party number '3'. Had an evening meal at the Garden restaurant
and watched the puppet show, which went on rather a long time and was rather
difficult to follow.
Borobodur, Java
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Above and left: The very impressive and atmospheric Borobodur temple. |
8th. Up very early to fly by Merpati Airlines to Bali. After a false start at the Sunset bungalows, we found the Sari Beach Inn, a perfect guest house - picturesque, cheap, with a swimming-pool and air-conditioned room, right on Legian beach.
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The lovely Sari Beach Inn on the beach in Legian, Bali. |
After swimming and cautious sunbathing we walked along the beach, then inland and caught a Bemo into Kuta. It's Blackpool for Aussie dropouts! Had a very nice meal of steak and pizza, as a break from Thai/Indonesian food, then walked back, investigating the huge tape shops along the way. Stopped for a waffle and ice cream to break the journey.
9th. Had a much-needed lie-in then walked down the beach
again to the Sari hotel and used their sun-beds while they arranged for
jeep hire. Had a massage, which was very relaxing except for the finger
and toe-cracking! After sorting out money-changing, jeep formalities and
eating, we went to explore Sanur and Denpassar. Sanur is very tasteful but
is just one big resort. Denpassar is busy, with complicated one-way systems.
We stopped for a drink at the old-style Bali Hotel, but it wasn't really
very old-style. Back in Kuta we had a turtle steak while our films were
being processed at the photo-shop opposite.
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
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Trying out the traditional masks at the wood-carver's village! |
Then we went on to Ubud and stopped for lunch at Café Ubud, then drove around looking at places to stay - there were some lovely places with superb views. We had a drink and a swim at the Tjampuhan, one of the only two swimming-pools in Ubud, but didn't stay there as the rooms were rather small. Instead we went and stayed at the Kampung Aman with cool airy rooms with soap, towels, shampoo and boiled spring water and lovely views over fields and forests, all for £5 a night!
We had tea at the Lotus Café, then went to see the Kechak (monkey) dance and fire dance at Bona. The dancing was fascinating, but ruined by the constant flashes from the tourists' cameras. On the way back we passed the Legong dance in progress at Mas, and stopped to watch the second half from a superb position at the front. Finished off with a cheesecake at the Lotus Café.Sat 11th. Had a lovely leisurely breakfast on our veranda overlooking the fields, with various countryside and farmyard noises from off-stage.
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Rural life goes on near Ubud in Bali. |
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Lunch overlooking Lake Batur. | The colourful Batur Temple, Bali. |
We stopped at Batur temple which was colourfully decorated, probably for a festival, and at Singaraja to see the sunset over the harbour, then went along the coast to the west looking for somewhere to stay. After a lot of messing about we ended up at the Mandham Losmen (not bad for £2) and had an excellent meal at the seafood restaurant up the road.
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Evening at Singaraja harbour. | Sunset at Benoa port. |
12th. On a recommendation from the man at the Losmen, we drove a bit further up the road to the hot spring near Banjar. It was lovely, 39 degrees in the upper pool and 36 degrees in the lower one, so we all had a hot bath. On the way back through the mountains we stopped at the Gitgit waterfall, then pressed on back to Legian to return the jeep, less than an hour late. We checked back into the Sari Beach Inn for a lazy afternoon and evening.
13th. A totally lazy day sunbathing and eating.14th. Up early (hired the jeep again) and drove to Tannah Lot before any other tourists, in fact even before the souvenir stalls had opened. We walked along the clifftop a little way for impressive views.
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Tannah Lot temple from the clifftop. | Taman Ayun temple at Mengwi, Bali. |
We drove to the Taman Ayun water temple in Mengwi, which was very pleasant but the tourists had arrived by then. Then all the way down to Uluwatu temple perched impressively on top of a cliff. On the way back we diverted to the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel for an excellent lunch/tea in truly impressive surroundings. In the evening we went to Sanur, which seems dead after Kuta, and had a look at the Hyatt and La Taverna, but La Taverna seemed dead after the Hyatt. Not finding anywhere to eat in Sanur we came back and had an excellent pizza and Australian red wine in Kuta.
15th. Another lazy day around the hotel.16th. Sheila leapt up in a get-up-and-go mood, so we hired the jeep yet again and went. With the aid of a better map we found the Sada temple in Kapal, which was lovely and restful because of the grass in place of the usual dusty yards.
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Sada Temple in Kapal, Bali....... |
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A vegetable stall in Candi Kuning market in Bali. | The lovely Ulu Danu Temple on Lake Bratan. |
Then, round the corner at Bedugul, we went parasailing on Lake Bratan...... | .... it was great fun! |
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We drove back in time for Sheila's sunbathe, then down to the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel for dinner.
17th. Another lazy day sunbathing, etc.Sat 18th. Up very early for a full day of travel - a taxi to the bus station, express bus to the ferry, a ferry from Bali to Java, a bus again to Probolingo, then a local minibus up to Ngadisari, the village before Mount Bromo. The minibus was licenced for 9 passengers, but at the peak of the journey it had 25 passengers, two chickens and assorted vegetables inside, plus a couple of dozen baskets and 25 kilos of rice strapped to the roof. And all this up some extremely steep gradients! From Ngadisari the last leg of the journey up to the guest house on the crater rim was by horse, which would have been fun except I had a large overnight bag balanced on my knee and the heavy camera case over my shoulder, and didn't feel at all stable. At the top there was just time to look across the huge crater to the smoking cone of the volcano before darkness fell and we settled down for a lengthy wait for the dinner we'd ordered. Most of it did arrive eventually, but not in the sequence we expected - main course before soup, for example.
19th. Up even earlier, at 4am, to walk through the thick morning mist in the crater to the volcano's cone. At first there was silence and darkness, then the sounds of other people walking or riding through the mist, until by the time we were climbing up the cone we were part of a large convoy. We climbed up out of the mist and onto the crater rim, where there was almost a party going on - being a holiday, Indonesians had come from far and wide to see sunrise over Bromo, and the rim was extremely crowded. We sat there trying to get our breath back after the climb, taking in lung-fulls of sulphurous smoke from inside the volcano, and while it was still dark we could faintly see the red glow at the bottom. The sun rose over the mist-shrouded valley, the desolate volcanic peaks and the crowds of holiday-makers, and then we made our way back, this time on horseback.
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Sunrise at Mount Bromo. |
After a relatively quick breakfast at the hotel we returned to Ngadisari
on horseback and bought a ticket on a supposed express bus all the way
to Surabaya. In fact the journey down to Probolingo was on another
'9-passenger' minibus (which only reached a peak of 18 this time) then
the express bus from there. The times all fitted quite well and we arrived
in Surabaya at about 12:30. Spurning taxis, we followed the other overlanders
to the Bemo station and crammed ourselves and our luggage in the back for
the ride to the railway station. Here we found things well organised and
were able to book our sleepers on the train to Jakarta with only one problem
- I had to change a traveller's cheque to pay for the tickets and as it
was Sunday all the banks and money-changers were closed. We finally reached
an agreement with a taxi-driver at the station, that he would take us for
a two-hour sightseeing trip, stopping at possible money-changers and hotels
on the way. The only open money-changer in the city couldn't help because
they only took traveller's cheques in dollars (ours were in pounds) and
when the cashier at the Hyatt Hotel said they only cashed cheques for residents,
a major problem seemed to be developing. However, after a little persuasion
the Hyatt did very kindly cash the cheque, and we settled down to enjoy
the rest of our sightseeing trip. I suppose it was worthwhile from the point
of view that we now know there is nothing to see in Surabaya. The train
duly left on time and around 5pm we went to have 'lunch' in the restaurant
car, intending to come back later for dinner. However, we were all so overcome
by tiredness that we put the beds up and were all asleep before 8pm.
Tues 21st. I got up early and had a marathon walk round the port, the old Dutch part of town and Chinatown, while Sheila and Jamie had a lie in. Then off to the airport to fly home.
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The Dutch-style town hall in Jakarta. |